Hello again, patient people. So, little did I know last year, that it would take me more or less 365 days to pull off another article. Well, let’s just say time-consuming aka being a full-time baby mama, life-changing aka moving countries, risk-taking aka going from salary to being an entrepreneur things happened that occupied my time. Sorry, not sorry. I promised myself I wouldn’t write the blog unless it was fun for me and I could really enjoy the process. Well, guess what, today I can.
At the dawn of new exciting off-and online wine projects to come, I am going to seize this moment right here right now to give you a (grape)juicy overview of what I have been up to this past year wine-wise.
Let’s go back in time to August and September 2022 when I was wrapping things up in Estonia, before heading back to France. Literally wrapping wine bottles into boxes, since Quintessence had some decent sales last summer. I could meet the clients personally and that always moves me, to know where my wines are going 😊 I made a Facebook page, all by myself (well done Maria, even if I do say so myself). A page, that is always open for more followers and shares btw 😉 and as these days mandatory, created some social media content for our wines. That kind of work is undoubtably much fun. Leaving Estonia though, not that fun. But as crazy as it sounds, it’s that time a year again, so going back soon to surely discover how well my wines continue to age in the cellar. Will keep you posted on those delicious Chenin and Riesling evolutions.
PARIS So, chronologically speaking, I was on my way back to le Grand-Est. To get to Metz, I always had a layover in Paris, to visit my cousin, my in-laws and last but not least, to wine & dine at some nice new place. Last year, a friend’s friend had just opened a fabulous wine bar in the Marais district, perfectly located between Place des Vosges and Bastille. It’s called Les Amoureuses. If you haven’t been there yet, make sure you put that place on your to-go list. The very effortlessly curated interior packs an impressive wine list and of course different foods that match with what’s in your glass. On the night of the 17th of September my girlfriends and I tasted almost everything on the menu and rest assured we were not disappointed. Now for the fun part, the wines… obviously, a reunion should be celebrated with some champagne, I believe we went for the Maison Gamet brut NV. Fresh with pleasant bubbles, easy to drink and a crowd pleaser, just the right kind of wine for a table of six.
However, my absolute favorite wine of the evening was a 2020 Riesling by Domaine Marcel Deiss. The name needs no introduction, at least not in France and Riesling from Alsace, well it’s like a staple and a tribute to the wine region. So, from the first nose on I fell under the spell of this magnificent wine. The complexity of a wine still fairly young with a sufficient mouthful and a lingering perfectly balanced finish really was a pure pleasure to savor. Sidenote: Now if you are thinking that you are not a fan of Riesling, then this is the wine that will make you change your mind. Do take my word for it and thank me later 😉 But seriously, message me or comment once you’ve tasted their wines, I am very interested in my readers’ feedback. Coming back to Paris, the wine bar/restaurant displays many great producers along with one that I know personally, Domaine des Carlines. Patrick’s precise and authentic wines will take you on an amazing discovery of the Jura region. So do yourself a wine favor and check out Les Amoureuses as well as the producers I recommended.
After Paris I returned back to our Metz-home with a never-ending to-do list. Top priorities were creating a bilingual website for Quintessence and finding new reds for the fall season. Two exciting tasks I couldn’t wait to get started with. Some unexpected events (can’t really remember what, so maybe laziness instead…) postponed those projects until pretty much November, but well, you play the cards you are dealt with, right? At least that’s what I found written in my detail-lacking diary. To continue on an Alsace note, I remembered that a few months back I had bought this natural wine from Lissner, a 2018 Pinot Gris. An explosion of umami in my mouth, a natural wine made with such precision and mastery I have trouble describing it. The hue of the brilliant wine, even though non filtered, was just playing around with the rays of the setting sun. A wine that is free and wild as they claim on their website and once again, Alsace flew high on the radar and left me craving for more.
METZ On came October and I had two wonderful wine experiences. First was a visit to an estate called Château de Vaux, just 7 km from my home. AOC Moselle as in the most northern French wine region is not very well known in general. Now for a few numbers and figures: it officially covers an area of 678ha but where only 75ha are currently planted with vines. The picturesque 46km wine road starts by the Luxembourg/Germany/France border, heads south towards Metz and continues all the way to Nancy. 60% of the wines are white, 30% red and 10% rosé. Sure, I had become familiar with the local wines since the two years I had spent in Metz, but I had yet to visit a vineyard. Château de Vaux is a 14ha, elegant, family-run estate, just the way I like them. 5th generation wine making is now in the hands of Marie-Geneviève Molozay and she is making the region proud with her organic and biodynamic wines.
…with a swirling glass in my hand, literally getting some air, I was in my happy place.
It is greatly thanks to this family’s contribution and relentless work, that the Moselle was acknowledged as an official appellation in 2011. A tour around the historical estate was followed by an extensive tasting and purchases that had to be rolled out in a convoy. One of my favorites was the XB extra brut sparkling wine made with 100% Chardonnay grapes in a traditional method (like champagne). The dosage of only 4gr/l makes it crisp and light, yet so full bodied thanks to the 24-month lees aging. Of course, it’s not champagne, but it is perfectly executed and delivers the typicity of the local terroir. My other preference was a still dry white wine called Maddalena, made of 100% Müller-Thurgau grapes. Imagine a blend of ripe peaches, saline minerality and a hint of oak. Yes, it is intense, but it is not heavy. The fact that the malolactic fermentation has been completed as well, just adds a layer of depth and character to this oddly harmonious wine. Those 14ha are home to several other grape varieties and produce beautiful wines, all in a respectful manner using masterful wine making techniques. Since their production is obviously pretty small, it is best to call ahead and buy your bottles directly at the estate. You can also find them on the wine lists of nicer restaurants of the region. Enjoy!
But the month of October had much more in store for me. I was designing my beautiful business cards and prepping for another exciting event to come. More or less in the last hours of the month, Quintessence website in Estonian and English was ready to be launched and let’s just say it was about time. All hard work eventually pays off and consider it as a reward, but lucky me was invited by my dear friends Maryvonne and Jean-Louis to take a little road trip. Between Metz and Nancy, there is a gorgeous 18th century Abbey Prémontrés. This historical location hosted its annual wine fair and conveniently brought all French wine regions right to my home court. I must admit, it had been a while since my last wine fair so I was professionally and personally beyond thrilled. And as you can remember I was still on the hunt for my fall reds for Quintessence. This event was well organized, compact and most of all, breathtakingly beautiful to look at. The buzzing of the people, everyone’s senses being tingled and all those vibrant conversations around the wines. What’s not to like?
My top picks were Domaine Faiveley from Burgundy with their silky and buttery Chardonnay and an abundantly aromatic Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Pinot Noir. Domaine Serge Laloue from Loire with their emblematic Sancerre from fragrant Sauvignon Blanc was an estate I had visited in 2019 but always a pleasure to taste and meet the wine makers again. Many more great winemakers were present and proved to be interesting discoveries but a serial tasting like the fairs, can be a challenging exercise for the palate. So, as I strolled down those centuries’ old staircases, with a swirling glass in my hand, literally getting some air, I was in my happy place. That being said, not one inch closer to finding the red wine missing from my selection in Estonia. Shall we just pause here for a minute and for the sake of the suspense say – to be continued…
Maria
